A Taste of Home: 台山 Delicacies in New York

Memories to Savor

For many kids from 台山, 黄鳝饭 (eel rice) is more than just a dish—it’s a nostalgic flavor that ties them to their roots. Whenever I miss my hometown, I find myself revisiting Lian Wang, a charming little restaurant, where the echoes of my childhood memories linger. It’s said that the flavors here are the most authentic, making it a treasure for anyone yearning for a slice of home.

The Search for Authentic Flavors

While heard about the little culinary competition happening in New York, I couldn’t help but think that 台山’s culinary gems deserve a spot in the spotlight. But, before recommending Lian Wang, I believed in the duty of a food critic to revisit and appraise the dishes with fresh eyes.

Delicious Highlights from Lian Wang

盘龙鳝 (Braised Eel)

With a rich and aromatic sauce made from fermented black bean and garlic, the moment it arrives at the table, the mouthwatering scent fills the air. The white eel is luxurious in texture, tender and crisp in each bite, leaving behind a delicate gelatinous feel, paired with hints of dried tangerine peel that amplify its flavor.

五味鸭 (Five-Spice Duck)

This dish stands out with its tender meat that even my mom, who has trouble chewing, finds easy to enjoy. The broth is infused with a deep, gelatinous essence, and the initial touch of sourness from the plum is perfectly balanced with sweet and savory notes from the spices, leaving a pleasantly spicy aftertaste that resonates well.

黄鳝饭 (Eel Rice)

Unfortunately, the once-rich flavor of the eel rice seems to have faded. The rice, seemingly pre-cooked and reheated, lacks the shiny oiliness I remember. Each bite feels less fresh, depriving it of the dish’s soul that made it a comforting reminder of home.

咸鱼茄子煲 (Salted Fish Eggplant Pot)

Though the eggplant is stir-fried before hitting the hot pot, its aromatic flavors fill the room. The combination of pot sauce and salted fish is just right; however, the sauce itself is disappointingly thin, lacking the desired richness.

上汤苋菜 (Spinach in Broth)

This dish showcases the freshness of tender greens, complemented by a well-seasoned chicken broth. The presence of fried garlic and shredded ginger adds a delightful depth of flavor, making it a comforting side dish.

A Bittersweet Reflection

The flavors here remain reminiscent of the authentic 台山 eateries that I cherish, but I can’t shake the feeling that the signature 黄鳝饭 has lost its charm. It brings back fond memories of bustling street stalls and the comforting warmth of shared meals with family. The reminiscence of my first surprising bite as a kid and the joy of discovering similar tastes far from home fills my heart.

Once, Lian Wang felt like the embodiment of home, but the recent visit rendered me contemplative. After returning to 台山, I discovered that my beloved stalls were no longer there. The home I cherished has transformed, much like the bowl of rice in my hands now—a tangible reminder of what once was, layered with the yearning for the flavors I can no longer grasp.